Connecting with Your Dog Through Photography-Friendly Tricks

The 5 Best Dog Tricks for Photos

1. Hup:

While it might not initially feel like a trick, "Hup" proves handy for portrait sessions. For energetic dogs, find a low, stable object and use a treat to lure them onto it. Reward generously while on the object, then toss a treat away. Repeat the process. Once your dog has this figured out, add the word you're going to use for this trick. I use hup, but use what makes sense to you. 

If your dog is a senior, then it might be best to skip this one. 

Why is this on the list? It's the most useful trick to have during a portrait session because sometimes the view on the ground isn't spectacular, but 12 or so inches above the ground, and it's a whole new world. The bonus is, it makes it easier for your dog to understand where to be, making the session more fun for you both.

2. Head Down:

Teaching the "Head Down" trick is a breeze when your dog is elevated. Personally, I prefer using my bed for this. Position your dog right at the edge of the bed, and from a seated position on the ground, entice them with a treat brought up to the bed's edge, low enough to encourage their head to lower. As soon as their chin touches the bed, click or use a verbal marker and reward.

As your dog begins to grasp the concept, introduce a chosen word as their head descends. For instance, I use "Are you sad?" as a cue, but feel free to stick with a single word if that suits you.

3. Cross your paws:

Begin by teaching your dog to give you one paw while in a sitting position. Choose either paw, but be consistent with the selection. Once your dog readily offers the paw from a sit, transition them to a down position and extend your hand. Encourage your dog to offer the same paw. If they don't, return to the sit for a few more repetitions and conclude the session.

In the next session, start with the sit and a few paw offers, then switch to the down position. When your dog consistently offers their paw upon seeing your hand, experiment by moving your hand to different spots. Ensure your dog can reach from their lying down position. Gradually lower your hand and move it closer to the other paw. Mark and reward each time the paws touch, and when the paw stays crosed, reward continuously. Then toss some treats and to give your dog a break, and try again.

Once your dog has mastered this, introduce your chosen word. I use "Cross your paws," Be sure to use your word before you move your hand. Your dog will learn that the word means you'll offer your hand, and your dog will begin to offer the paw in anticipation of your hand moving. At that time, you can start moving your hand less and less, until your verbal cue is enough.

4. Sit Pretty/Beg:

To train your dog to sit pretty, start by using treats as a lure from a sitting position.

Begin by placing a few treats in one hand and using them to lure your dog from a sit into a sitting pretty position. Reward rapidly with individual treats, and then release your dog using a chosen release word. I use "okay," but feel free to select a word that suits you, considering potential accidental usage. The key is to reward swiftly and release promptly to prevent your dog from touching down on their own.

As your dog builds strength (remember, this can be physically demanding, so keep sessions short and prioritize caution), adjust your treat delivery by slowing down. Increase the time between each reward and gradually move your hands away, extending the duration of each treat reaching your dog.

Transition from using treats as a lure to incorporating a hand signal. Once your dog has mastered the behavior, introduce a verbal cue.

Pay attention to your dog's back during the training. Aim for a straight back, avoiding any arching. If your dog struggles to maintain a straight back, consider skipping this exercise to ensure their well-being.

5. Bow:

Teaching your dog to bow is another trick that's easily lured. Follow these steps:

• Stand in front of your standing dog.
• Take a treat and, starting from under their chin, move the treat towards their chest and then down.
• As your dog follows the treat, mark the moment they shift their weight back.
• Repeat the treat movement, rewarding when your dog's front legs go down.
• Toss the treat in front of your dog to prevent them from transitioning into a full down position.
• Repeat this process rapidly for a few rounds.
• Encourage your dog to hold the bow position a bit longer by delivering treats in quick succession.
• Toss a treat forward to reset, then start again.

Once your dog understands the trick, introduce your chosen verbal cue before you move to lure them into the bow position. Gradually, as your dog starts to bow without the lure, reduce how much you move and reward generously.

This gradual progression will help your dog associate the verbal cue with the desired behavior, allowing you to fade the lure over time.

6. Bonus - Hold it:

Teaching a "Hold it" is a more advanced trick. Follow these steps to shape your dog's interaction with a novel object:

• Begin with a hard, non-unpleasant object for your dog to hold. Plastic dumbbells work well, but any suitable item will do—avoid soft toys or squishy objects.
• With your dog in front of you, present the object at head height. Mark and reward your dog looking at the object,
• Remove the object between repetitions by putting it behind your back to start each one cleanly. Only present the object when your dog is focused on you.
• Next, when you present the object in front of your dog, mark and reward and movement of your dog's head forward towards the object. 
• Then mark and reward for your dog for touching it with their nose or mouth.
• Next for any slight opening of the mouth. Be aware of your timing of the mark. You want to mark the mouth opening.
• Randomly mark and reward nose touches and move the object quickly between repetitions. Jackpot any open-mouth interaction.
• Once your dog is mouthing the object, focus on increasing duration. 
• Increase hold duration by delaying the mark. You can put your hand under your dog's chin to help with a calmer hold.
• Once your dog has this, you can try different objects. 
• It's important to teach your dog to hold until you have both hands on the object and give your release word.

Below is a video of View learning to hold as a puppy. You can see he was a little chompy at this point, but he eventually settled down. I put him in a chair because he was moving around too much and I wanted him confined so he couldn't back up or move forward.